Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Robbie's Guide to Gili Trawangan

As I did with Sabang, I feel qualified to give a brief subjective overview of the tiny island I now consider my temporary home.

General Overview:
There are many things that make the Gili Islands very unique. These three islands in a line off the western coast of Lombok are all very small. Trawangan lying farthest west is the largest having a perimeter of about 4 miles. Meno, the smallest island located in the middle of three is separated on either side by about 800 yards. Gili Air is the closest to Lombok and though marginally larger than Meno, has the smallest population. What makes these three islands particularly special is that there are no motored vehicles allowed. As a result there are no paved roads; the cement sections of some streets are falling apart and otherwise the more common dirt roads are rarely packed and require a dismount from any bicycle. All construction is done by hand, all transportation is either by bike or by horse, and thus air pollution is cut to nothing at all.
However, there is a serious trash problem here. (I am from now on only speaking specifically about Trawangan.) Despite the well-placed trash receptacles, the streets, primarily the streets in the village away from the tourists, are strewn with piles plastic wrappers and bottles of all shapes and sizes, perhaps the most depressing thing about the island. The only important tidbit to know about all three islands is that fresh water is a commodity. It can only be found bottled as drinking water in stores or on taps in only some of the fancier resorts. Otherwise, all sinks and showers provide the user with brackish salt water.

People:
Try as hard as you can; it will be nearly impossible to find friendlier more hospitable people willing to help strangers for nothing in return. It seems to be an unspoken island policy to greet any passersby on the road and chat for a moment or two. On an island where time is of no real value, it is of no consequence to stop and return the greeting and continue the conversation.

Housing:
There are plenty of options for most budgets here on the island, excluding the extreme high rollers. The most expensive suites max out around $200/night. Backpackers lodges are plentiful but should be booked upon arrival, not before. The best strategy is to walk around the island asking locals about places to stay (everyone on the island has several friends running homestays or bungalows). Compare prices and locations a bit, and after an hour or so depending on how picky you choose to be and how much bargaining is done, you will be happily housed at a good price, possibly as low as $4/night for two people.

Food:
Local food can be found all over the island in what are called Warungs. These tiny shops which all double as convenience or hardware stores have a small display of food in bowls. I haven't determined if it has a name but the person behind the display, usually hidden behind the food on the shelves, takes one scoop from every bowl and places each one carefully separated onto a pile of white rice. The dish is a smorgasbord of vegetables, sometimes fruits, tempeh, sometimes tofu, corn, chicken, occasionally fish, and often other foods that aren't discernible to me. Ranging anywhere from 1-2 dollars, these anytime and anywhere meals are perfect for the mouth and wallet.
More expensive versions of the traditional food can be found in the many restaurants scattered across the busy eastern stretch of the island, but these places are generally frequented for their popular western foods. Pizzas, burgers, pastas, omlettes, Mexican food, sandwiches, wraps, and more can be found at these restaurants, no single dish ever seeming to exceed $10 before the 20% tax and service charges are added. With a constant international population on the island, the restaurants have actually done a very good job at perfecting these dishes.

Sites/Activities:
It appears that all the activities on the island are centered around the water with a few exceptions. At least 20 shacks along the eastern beach offer rentals for snorkeling gear, boat trips, glass-bottom kayaks, regular kayaks, swimming, sailing, boat trips, multi-day boat trips, scuba diving trips, and many other water-related activities. Other activities offered here include horse rides, watching movies, and renting a bicycle to explore the island. Bicycles can be rented for less than a few dollars a day and are usually in working condition regardless of the age, but understand that the sand and dirt on many of the roads are too loose to pedal across­ and require the bike to be pushed.

Diving:
The diving around the Gili Islands is not world class. I would consider it mediocre. Even though dynamite fishing ended about 10 years ago, the effects are still obvious. Many of the dive sites have stretches of rubble, expanses of lifeless colorless coral. What was once a thriving underwater wonderworld is now laying in ruin. The few patches of coral that somehow escaped the dynamite are utterly gorgeous and bustling with life but the saving grace of the diving here is the visibility and warm water. The water is maintained at a constant 80F, plus or minus about 5, and the water, particularly the shallows, is nothing short of crystal clear.

Night Life:
Restaurants and resorts reserved nights of the week to throw parties. The Irish Bar claims Wednesday nights, Blue Marlin I believe takes Saturdays, and someone else takes another day. These are generally very well-attended events with a DJ, lights, dancing, a hip international crowd, and plenty to drink. It is this party atmosphere which has helped bring in such a consistent flow of tourists to Gili Trawangan as opposed to the quieter Gili Meno and Gili Air. Music typically plays at full volume until around 4am when the last of the crowd is forced to go to bed.

General Recommendations:
This is a party island popular among the younger crowd but perfectly accommodating to almost all age groups. Non-local children are seldom seen while the elderly either stay home or don't leave their bungalows. Due to the wide range of activities offered and the relaxed inviting atmosphere, accommodating all budgets, this island is perfect for anyone who is fit to ride the ferry either from Bali or Lombok.

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