Synopsis of Egypt

I have now spent nearly 8 weeks without leaving the boundaries of Egypt and I consider that a fair amount of time to have a reasonable opinion about the places I've been, food I've sampled, and people I've met.
I spent over 2 weeks in Marsa Alam, about 2 weeks in Sinai, over 2 weeks in and around the waters off Sharm el Sheikh, at least a week in Cairo, and several days in Alexandria, so I can only speak for these places.

Locations:
Egypt is a desert. There are few clouds, endless stretches of sand, hot sun, cool windy nights, and very very little humidity. I did not see a single drop of rain during the course of my entire stay and nearly experienced dehydration while drinking several liters of water daily. The thing that never ceased to amaze me about the country's flora and fauna is that while it is entirely desolate on land with scarcely enough brush to imitate greenery, the underwater world of the Red Sea is home to one of the most vibrant marine ecosystems I've ever laid eyes upon.
Marsa Alam is the best example of the contrast between the vast desert and booming reefs. It is a sparsely populated desert with scorching temperatures and no shade. The marine environment on the other hand is pumping with life (see last post about the awesome pinnacle dive).

Crystal clear water, crowded with fish

While Sharm el Sheikh boasts some of the world's best diving, the shoreline has been built up as a tourist haven. Large hotels, casinos, fast food chains, European restaurants, and large plots of grass that look completely out of place litter the coast and prices are often advertized in Euros or US Dollars, a sure sign of tourist price inflation.
From what I saw of the inner Sinai peninsula, I've determined it is an expansive mountainous desert region. Here in the highlands the bitter cold at night can be very fierce while the sun during the day is relentless. It is a beautiful area scattered with large valleys between gorgeous mountain ranges and cinematic-quality sand dunes sprinkled in the mix. Do not be fooled by the beauty of the region though: it is a very harsh and unforgiving terrain with very few usable resources.
Alexandria is Egypt's prime port city on the Mediterranean coast. It is very full of life and incredibly rich with a very long and elaborate history. Transportation is quite cheap and relatively straight forward for a savvy traveler. Although efforts are made, the city is not competent with litter control and the drivers do not know how to use the lanes drawn so well on the roads. While some streets are presentable, other backstreets regularly flood from the ground up and reek of dead animals but these streets are almost never visited by typical visitors to the city. The highlight of this city is the Biblioteca Alexandria which is without question, the best, largest, most extensive, cleanest, well-designed, impressive library I have ever seen. If you go, do me a huge favor: go to the "aquarium" or "underwater museum" at the Citadel, pay the fee to bring a camera in, take pictures of every sign/caption, and send them to me. Not doing this is my only regret of being in Alexandria and perhaps the biggest regret of my life.
Alexandria was a nice break from Cairo which is easily the dirtiest city I've ever stepped foot in (soundly beating out even prime contenders such as Nairobi, Kenya; Manila, Philippines; New Orleans, LA months after Katrina; and even Maputo, Mozambique, the former title holder). That being said, it is one of the safest cities I've ever been to. I did not feel threatened being out on the streets at any hour day or night whether in company or alone. It is very rich in Egyptian history, housing the Pyramids of Giza, the Sphynx, and the Egyptian museum. The museum indisputably holds the most comprehensive collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts on the planet, incidentally presented in more of a warehouse fashion than a standard museum (no cameras are allowed, and if you have the money then get a tour guide because there are no informational pamphlets). Litter along the streets is abundant, condensation from air conditioning units drip along every sidewalk, and the entire city's color scheme is brown (a combination of the building materials and the layer of dirt covering everything). The city's natural soundtrack of incessant car horns is so persistent that the only respite can be found in the short time between about 4 and 5am although many shops are still open and streets are not empty at any hour. The city is English-friendly and the people are incredibly outgoing and welcome foreigners with open arms, but more about that later.

Food:
The Egyptians have a wonderful array of traditional foods with a collection of original recipes as well as dishes influenced by the surrounding Middle East and Southeastern Europe. Pitas, rice, various pastas, chicken, fish, beef (kofta), and vegetables (primarily cucumber and tomato) make up the main diet. Those are all complemented with chick peas, lentils, eggplant (babaganoush), okra, hummus, fried onions, marvelous sauces, and best of all very fresh and very sweet fruits from the lush Nile region. For quick meals, shewermas and felafels make excellent lunches. I lack the skills of a food critic to be any good at describing what these foods taste like, but they are indeed marvelous. I had the unfortunate experience of becoming tired of it briefly after having it 3 meals a day for 7 straight weeks, but upon leaving the country I still regard Egyptian cuisine as one that is absolutely worth trying.

People:
Egyptians are the most outgoing group of individuals I've ever come across, always intent to say hi, introduce themselves, welcome you to Egypt, ask where you come from, invite you for tea, etc. From the relationships I formed throughout my time in the country, most of this friendliness is entirely genuine. On the other hand, they have led me to consider where the line is drawn between being friendly and overbearing. Apparently within the Egyptian culture, it is very unusual for anyone to be alone; it generally means something is wrong. This tidbit of information finally allowed me to understand the fact that it is impossible to walk around Cairo for 10 minutes without being stopped. Please note however that there is a difference between understanding something and accepting it. Being outwardly friendly myself, I do not object to saying hi or stopping for a brief moment to chat, even to a stranger. However being as independent as I am, I find it annoying to be stopped by 30 people along the streets asking me the same questions, half of them insisting on walking with me as we talk, several bringing me into their shop to “give me a business card” and try to sell me something. The overly assertive description I've provided is primarily exclusive to the Capital city but can easily be found throughout the country.

Overall:

Typical scene during the desert safari

It's a fantastic place to visit with the understanding that a long stay in Cairo is avoided or if you have financial means to stay in a hotel and book private tours to all attractions (again, only for long stays). That being said, if you are looking for cheap housing, then check out Dahab Hostel. Do however make sure to spend a day walking around downtown regardless of your traveling style. Experiencing downtown Cairo firsthand outside the confines of the tourist bubble is WELL worth it and you will not experience Cairo unless you do it this way. I became tired after several days of it, but it's the kind of thing that really should be experienced once as long as you're there. If you are a diver, you must not miss out on the opportunity to dive here. If pushed for time, Ras Muhamed National Park around Sharm is the place to go but try to get south to Marsa Alam where the amount of divers is reduced by about 90%. Egypt is definitely family friendly and can accommodate many languages and nationalities so don't let language deter you.
Will I go back? Honestly, no time soon. I'm very pleased and grateful that I had the opportunity to go and I feel very blessed that I was able to see and do what I did. However there are dozens of places I want to go that I've never been, and even within of the list of countries I've visited, there are others I would rather return to before going back to Egypt (Philippines, New Zealand, Australia, France, South Africa, etc).

Bottom Line:
Egypt is a wonderful place to see once and check it off the list.

Hitchhiker's Guide

First of all, I was waiting for the day that I reached 25 followers. I was going to have a celebratory post where I got really excited about having a quarter of a hundred people reading my blog, but then I missed it. Sure enough, there are now 27. I try to make a habit of not judging myself on what other people do, but seeing the number of followers rise is the only measurable quantity to how many people are interested in what I'm up to. Here's a big shout out to all 27 of you. Thanks a million for following my travels and keeping me company along the way!

Hitchhiking outside Christchurch

Transportation. What does the word make you immediately think of? Does it bring up images of driving in a car? Fond memories of plane rides? Perhaps a lovely trip in a boat? If you think long enough about the concept of transportation, the idea of cost might cross your mind. With gas prices soaring, there is really only one cheap way to get form one place to another. I'm sure this form of transport is equally as old as any other: hitchhiking. Can't you imagine the very moment Karl Benz started up his first automobile for the first time how his buddies must have been running after him for a free ride? I'm sorry if your imagination doesn't have as much fun as mine seems to but the bottom line is that hitchhiking is still a great way to get around today.

I am going out on a limb and assuming that most of you have never tried it before as a means to travel across a country. Based on this assumption, I will describe a few things I've discovered as a result of my experiences.

Who:
From what I've seen, it's very difficult for more than one hiker to get picked up at a time. People often have space for only one more person, so if you're trying to hitch with someone else, good luck. If there is competition, it's best to walk in the direction you want to go. Separation from the competition is the only way to get picked up.

Where:
Places where cars need to slow down are ideal such as construction zones, turns, or bridges. However, there needs to be a place for them to pull off so forget mountain roads. Getting picked up in town is very unlikely, so starting from the far end of traffic areas is ideal.

When:
It's always best to start early. Sometimes there's hardly a wait but on off days, it may take over twice the time that it would driving there directly.

Why:
It is way cheaper than any other mode of transportation. Moreover, it can be far more interesting and much more beneficial. For instance, I had my first ride on a jet ski as a direct result of hitchhiking.

How:
As seen on tv. It's nothing special. Hold the arm out and confidently stick that thumb toward the sky. There are a few tricks that are handy: facing the cars allows for eye contact, a smile goes a long way, a limp arm or thumb will only hinder, a sign with a not-so-distant location (even if it takes 3 different signs) increases chances, and continuing to walk is an indication of liveliness and determination.

Off-roading in the second ride I got

As you should expect, I have come away with some great stories. For instance, the first car that picked me up literally went up in smoke. I was taken off-roading through bush and rocky river beds (pictured). As I said above, one of the people to pick me up later took me out for an absolutely thrilling ride on his jet ski. I've been picked up by many different nationalities, a wide variety of ages, and people with quite different stories. The experience that stands out slightly above the rest however would have to be the ride I got after finishing my tramp in Arthur's Pass.

Full picnic offered to me, a hitchhiker

Two long days of hiking several kilometers through rugged terrain with a 20kg pack brought me out to state highway 73. Some 200km to my right was Christchurch, and about 25km to my left was Arthur's Pass Department of Conservation (DOC). Unfortunately although my destination was Christchurch, I needed to swing by the DOC first. About 20 minutes of standing exhausted on the side of the road, a green car that had already passed me comes up behind and asks me if I need a lift. My initial thought was “duh,” but I politely said something to the extent of “if it wouldn't be any trouble, I would certainly appreciate it.” I hopped into the back of the '78 Rolls Royce and introduced myself to the other three. Steven, a 50+ year old New Zealander was on his way through Arthur's Pass with his mother and cousin to see the mountains covered in Rata, a native flowering tree that blooms red for about 2 weeks out of the year. We started talking and it turned out that Steven is actually going back to Christchurch after a picnic lunch with the family and offered to take me all the way there. After completing my errands at the DOC, it was insisted that I join them for the picnic lunch set beneath the mountains bursting out with red blossoms. The two and a half hour ride back to Christchurch (which included a shameless 20 minute nap) was probably the smoothest and most comfortable ride of my life. Who knew that my first ever ride in a Rolls Royce would be as a sweaty tired hitchhiker?

Robbie's Guide to Gili Trawangan

As I did with Sabang, I feel qualified to give a brief subjective overview of the tiny island I now consider my temporary home.

General Overview:
There are many things that make the Gili Islands very unique. These three islands in a line off the western coast of Lombok are all very small. Trawangan lying farthest west is the largest having a perimeter of about 4 miles. Meno, the smallest island located in the middle of three is separated on either side by about 800 yards. Gili Air is the closest to Lombok and though marginally larger than Meno, has the smallest population. What makes these three islands particularly special is that there are no motored vehicles allowed. As a result there are no paved roads; the cement sections of some streets are falling apart and otherwise the more common dirt roads are rarely packed and require a dismount from any bicycle. All construction is done by hand, all transportation is either by bike or by horse, and thus air pollution is cut to nothing at all.
However, there is a serious trash problem here. (I am from now on only speaking specifically about Trawangan.) Despite the well-placed trash receptacles, the streets, primarily the streets in the village away from the tourists, are strewn with piles plastic wrappers and bottles of all shapes and sizes, perhaps the most depressing thing about the island. The only important tidbit to know about all three islands is that fresh water is a commodity. It can only be found bottled as drinking water in stores or on taps in only some of the fancier resorts. Otherwise, all sinks and showers provide the user with brackish salt water.

People:
Try as hard as you can; it will be nearly impossible to find friendlier more hospitable people willing to help strangers for nothing in return. It seems to be an unspoken island policy to greet any passersby on the road and chat for a moment or two. On an island where time is of no real value, it is of no consequence to stop and return the greeting and continue the conversation.

Housing:
There are plenty of options for most budgets here on the island, excluding the extreme high rollers. The most expensive suites max out around $200/night. Backpackers lodges are plentiful but should be booked upon arrival, not before. The best strategy is to walk around the island asking locals about places to stay (everyone on the island has several friends running homestays or bungalows). Compare prices and locations a bit, and after an hour or so depending on how picky you choose to be and how much bargaining is done, you will be happily housed at a good price, possibly as low as $4/night for two people.

Food:
Local food can be found all over the island in what are called Warungs. These tiny shops which all double as convenience or hardware stores have a small display of food in bowls. I haven't determined if it has a name but the person behind the display, usually hidden behind the food on the shelves, takes one scoop from every bowl and places each one carefully separated onto a pile of white rice. The dish is a smorgasbord of vegetables, sometimes fruits, tempeh, sometimes tofu, corn, chicken, occasionally fish, and often other foods that aren't discernible to me. Ranging anywhere from 1-2 dollars, these anytime and anywhere meals are perfect for the mouth and wallet.
More expensive versions of the traditional food can be found in the many restaurants scattered across the busy eastern stretch of the island, but these places are generally frequented for their popular western foods. Pizzas, burgers, pastas, omlettes, Mexican food, sandwiches, wraps, and more can be found at these restaurants, no single dish ever seeming to exceed $10 before the 20% tax and service charges are added. With a constant international population on the island, the restaurants have actually done a very good job at perfecting these dishes.

Sites/Activities:
It appears that all the activities on the island are centered around the water with a few exceptions. At least 20 shacks along the eastern beach offer rentals for snorkeling gear, boat trips, glass-bottom kayaks, regular kayaks, swimming, sailing, boat trips, multi-day boat trips, scuba diving trips, and many other water-related activities. Other activities offered here include horse rides, watching movies, and renting a bicycle to explore the island. Bicycles can be rented for less than a few dollars a day and are usually in working condition regardless of the age, but understand that the sand and dirt on many of the roads are too loose to pedal across­ and require the bike to be pushed.

Diving:
The diving around the Gili Islands is not world class. I would consider it mediocre. Even though dynamite fishing ended about 10 years ago, the effects are still obvious. Many of the dive sites have stretches of rubble, expanses of lifeless colorless coral. What was once a thriving underwater wonderworld is now laying in ruin. The few patches of coral that somehow escaped the dynamite are utterly gorgeous and bustling with life but the saving grace of the diving here is the visibility and warm water. The water is maintained at a constant 80F, plus or minus about 5, and the water, particularly the shallows, is nothing short of crystal clear.

Night Life:
Restaurants and resorts reserved nights of the week to throw parties. The Irish Bar claims Wednesday nights, Blue Marlin I believe takes Saturdays, and someone else takes another day. These are generally very well-attended events with a DJ, lights, dancing, a hip international crowd, and plenty to drink. It is this party atmosphere which has helped bring in such a consistent flow of tourists to Gili Trawangan as opposed to the quieter Gili Meno and Gili Air. Music typically plays at full volume until around 4am when the last of the crowd is forced to go to bed.

General Recommendations:
This is a party island popular among the younger crowd but perfectly accommodating to almost all age groups. Non-local children are seldom seen while the elderly either stay home or don't leave their bungalows. Due to the wide range of activities offered and the relaxed inviting atmosphere, accommodating all budgets, this island is perfect for anyone who is fit to ride the ferry either from Bali or Lombok.

Robbie's Guide to Sabang

Many books and internet sites have been devoted to describing tourist destinations around the globe. If they can do it, why shouldn't I? Here is my personal subjective guide to Sabang, significantly shortened based on predicted audience interest (unless you honestly want to waste your time reading about the specific differences between the 20+ dive resorts).

Housing:
Temporary or extended housing can be found throughout Sabang. Although you will find no 5-star luxury resort here, prices run the gamut with quality to match. Small rooms suitable for two can be found in beachfront hotels as low as $10/night or as much as $80/night for an up-scale suite in a fancier resort literally next door.
Monthly-rate housing is scattered around but many are located at the far end of the beach (like mine) away from the lively areas. Standard rooms (no kitchen, no air conditioning) are available as low as $90/month and can run above $200/month for a more spacious and fully-equipped air conditioned apartment. Electricity is generally included and biweekly cleaning services are standard.
(If you do ever come here, stay in Captain Gregg's Resort and tell them that Robbie sent you.)

Food:
Although low prices are common in Sabang, it is easy to stumble into an average-quality resort restaurant to find prices not unlike those in America. As with most tourist destinations, the smaller the restaurant, the cheaper the food. Fish, chicken, and rice are staples in the Philippines, but when ordering any meal with fish, it will almost always be served with the head attached as it is a large source of the fish flavor. Even though it is customary to eat without utensils, many of the dishes are heavy with oil and the paper napkins are half the size and thickness as airline napkins. Look carefully and you will be able to find a full meal for less than $2 but if not, you may find yourself paying quadruple the price for the same quality.

Sites/Activities:
Sabang itself is very small and although it is covered with resorts, the range of activities is not very wide. Diving appears to be the main attraction (you probably think I'm saying that because I'm surrounded by it, but almost every tourist I've met outside of the diving atmosphere is a diver). Other activities include boating (boat rides – no rentals), snorkeling, motorbiking, jet skiing, going to a spa, or relaxing in a resort. At high tide the beach completely disappears while at all other times it is covered with pieces of hard coral and sprinkled with trash. Wade into the water and you will find a field of short sea grass rooted in mud. Also considering that the shallow water is used as a parking lot for boats, tourists rarely come here specifically to swim or relax on the beach.
There are no trails marked for walking, running, or hiking. To do any of these, it is highly advised to go with someone reliable who knows the area. Even if you pay a few dollars for a couple hours, you will not be disappointed; the scenery in and around Sabang is breathtaking. The mountains that make up this region are densely covered in green. There are paths through these jungles (invisible to the untrained eye) that have been walked by local villagers enough that machetes are not necessary. For the less adventuresome, taking to the paved roads eliminates the jungle terrain but adds the inherent danger of sharing the road with motor vehicles. Unless walking along the beach, it is extremely uncommon to find trails lacking steep climbs.

Diving:
Since the Philippines has managed to remain a relatively low-profile diving destination, the dive sites are in wonderful condition. Dive resorts boast that there are about 20 dive sites that can be reached in under 10 minutes. Not only does Sabang offer a large number of dive sites, but it also provides a wide variety of diving suitable for everyone from non-divers to the most experienced technical diver (John Bennett set the world record for the deepest open-circuit scuba dive here in 2001 by descending below 1,000ft). Dive options include wrecks, coral gardens, walls, and drift diving at a wide range of depths. Expect to see crowds of fish, colorful corals, lionfish, nudibranchs, and don't be frightened if you see the occasional sea snake or sting ray. Dives are relatively cheap: single dives are generally under $30, but resorts will work out package deals for multiple dives.

Night Life:
Sabang comes alive when the sun goes down. Different bars cater to different interests such as sports, dancing, pool, and karaoke. Several bars operate 24 hours a day and often have customers the entire time. The other very common type of bar, called girlie bars, are essentially strip clubs. Although prostitution is technically illegal, it is a very common activity in Sabang. Drinking and socializing are expected at night and you don't have to look far to find visitors (or residents) from many different countries.

General Recommendations:
Sabang is a cheap place to stay, has beautiful scenery, pristine diving, friendly people, and very active night life. All things considered however, this is not a family-friendly destination; very few activities are available for young children. It has been said that people in Sabang fall into one or more of the following categories: natives, employees (generally of resorts or bars), divers, or sex tourists.