Friday, January 29, 2010

Keeping Busy

Beautiful ferry ride
For your viewing pleasure, this is a picture from the ferry ride taken on my way into the south island. It was much nicer in real life - undoubtedly the best ferry ride of my life.

Anyway there are a ton of things that I have to think about, do, plan, and prepare for. Here's a list of what I can come up with off the top of my head of things I'm planning to do:

Get in touch with University of Otago
Organize transport to the university
Find accommodation for staying there
Send my computer battery to USA to be replaced
Decide on a track for the first hike for the next 3 days
Finish packing for the hike
Get a hold of a proper map and compass
Buy batteries, food, and trash bags for tomorrow
Call car rental agencies to ask about prices
Figure out transport to my second and longer hike
Determine transport back to Christchurch
Book a spot for black water rafting
Ship a bunch of things home

This is as much as I can remember. There are many more things I have to do but I can't think of them right now. All of these things to do are quite important but the most urgent plan (that I didn't even mention) is sleeping and I'm going to get working on that one pronto.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Goodbye Indonesia

My time in Indonesia has expired. Unlike milk, it didn't begin to gradually smell putrid. Nope, not like that at all. Instead, it turned from happy to rotten in a matter of minutes. Before going into that, I'd like to write a little preface about how nice my final days were on Gili Trawangan.

First of all, the dive resort I was working for, named Lutwala Dive, is amazing. It is beautiful, has a great pool, it's clean, has an incredible view, is situated away from all the noise and tourists, and has very friendly staff. I truly enjoyed showing up to work every morning because I felt incredibly welcome and there was always someone to talk to.

Before finishing, I certified my two divemaster candidates named Francois and Audrey. Audrey finished up first and went out to Bali to begin the instructor course right away. Francois, who started later, was on a much more serious time crunch. I worked with him every day for just over 2 weeks and on my last full day on the island, we finished. That night was spent at the Irish bar celebrating the completion of the course. Needless to say, Francois probably forgot what he was celebrating by the time he went to sleep (I exaggerate).

By 10:30 the next morning, I had been to Lutwala Dive twice, signed all the divemaster paperwork, sent a couple emails, printed off tickets, paid my ferry ticket, finished packing, said goodbye to friends, sold my bike, and bought a few pieces of bread before getting onto the boat. The last boat leaving Gili Trawangan departed at 11:00 and I was on it. 3 hours later when I arrived at the airport, security informed me that I was too early to check in for my 9:45pm flight. I knew I would have to wait that long, but I was hoping that waiting would not involve schlepping luggage everywhere. This is when I realized how great an idea it was not to sell the guitar. My guitar skills are quite far from being able to play in a public space for money and my vocal ability is even worse (I'm my hardest critic, but anyone hearing me would agree I can't do it for money). However, when it comes to playing for myself just for passing the time, I'm a musical wizard. No, it's not that it sounds any better when I'm playing for myself. It is just a matter of how I connect with the sounds that come out.

6 hours pass with the sun already setting. By now, it's time to check in. The first problem to throw off my systematic and fluid journey through the airport was a woman corralling passengers through to the check-in counter. “Sorry sir, the guitar has to be checked.” Arguing quickly proved hopeless and I easily caved, being forced to pay $6 to have my $16 guitar wrapped in bubble wrap. Having this issue sorted out, I proceeded once again to check-in.

The friendly face behind the counter greeted me with a convincing smile as if to say “hello sir, I really like my job and I want to make your journey pleasant.” She was clothed in a standard green uniform with a matching hat and shiny lapel pin that glinted in the dim fluorescent lights above. My actions and answers preceded her predictable commands and questions. Everything was textbook form. Then we got to the luggage. (Marcus, perhaps this is the island's way of trying to get back at me for leaving.)

As it turns out, Jet Star, a proud partner of Qantas, has this policy. You are able to take sports luggage on the plane without a problem. Scuba gear listed under sports luggage includes bcd, fins, mask, snorkel, regulator, knife, weights, and even tanks. However, if you take these things in a bag to check in on a Jet Star flight, you will quickly find out that you cannot take anything else with you at all. The max limit is 20kg no matter what kind of luggage you have. You see, I have 20kg of sports luggage. I also have about 20kg of everything else (books, clothes, shoes, toiletries, chargers, etc). Jet Star's policy is that for every additional kilo, you pay 20 Australian dollars. After some arguing and talking to a supervisor, it turned out that it's actually 23 US dollars on an international flight. Isn't that convenient.

The poor girl in the uniform was clearly feeling helpless as her smile turned to genuine concern while she watched this bubbly lone American traveler turn into a rather upset, insistent, and panicked customer. Several times I made sure to tell her that my anger and shock was not being taken out on her at all and was certain to make it clear that she was doing nothing wrong while at the same time trying to get her to solve the problem. She was a puppet, almost completely helpless in my dilemma that was taking control of my temper. $570 was the total: more than I paid for the ticket. When I asked about canceling the flight and booking another one (listen, desperation was setting in and I needed to take serious action), she fetched me a phone number of the Jet Star office.

I kindly took my bags to abandon my stake at the counter in front of the dazed employee and retreat to an empty post. With shaky hands I dropped my bags and pulled out my phone. The first number I dialed was not the one she gave me: it was my father's cell phone. At 7:30am EST on a Thursday, my parents are probably already at work but Dad usually has his cell with him. I tried every combination of +001, +01, +1, 001, 01, and 1 preceding the phone number, but nothing worked. I frantically tried the same for my mother's cell and my dad's office (3 of the only 5 numbers I have memorized). I tried calling the number she gave me and no one picked up. One more round of every possible number to reach home and one last effort to call the office proved in vain. I was on my own. My life lines have been used up. I had to pull myself together and face the bureaucratic corporation alone.

Ripping my bags open, I pulled out another backpack and began stuffing it with anything heavy I could find. I was taking one of the employee's good ideas: take 10kg out of my bags and take it as carry-on. Most of the passengers on the flight had already checked in so I didn't have to wait to speak to her again. Heaving my bags onto the scale one last time showed that I was about 12kg over the limit and the face between the recently pressed jacket and matching green hat showed no signs of reassurance. Her disapproving and worried face brought panic back into mine. At this point, the only thing I could do short of making a scene was make it look like I planned to make a scene. The area that I was pacing widened, the tension in my hands went up, the amount of times I rubbed my face and pulled my hair increased, and the feeling of worry and panic was radiating from my body. The next thing I know is that there was a different supervisor than before standing next to my friend in green asking me questions about my luggage and before I knew it, my bags were on the conveyor toward the plane with no fee. I got a stern threat not to tell anyone [until after leaving the Auckland airport] that I had more than 20kg or else she would be in huge trouble. I thanked her a few dozen times and went on my way. If there's anything I learned from that experience, it would be that pretending to get ready to cause a scene is very effective.

During the Bali-Sydney leg of the trip, an infection broke out on my foot and while I was practically skipping onto the plane, I was forced to limp off of it. A quick purchase of band-aids and ointment were made but it would be 2 more days until seeing a proper doctor. By now, my foot is feeling much better.

Auckland is great, the people I'm staying with are wonderful, and I'm looking forward to my adventures ahead. I haven't decided whether or not to take my laptop with me (remember I can't use the battery). If I don't, I'll make sure to update every once in a while. I'll certainly take lots of photos! As always, thanks for reading and I hope you are excited about what's to come not only in this blog but also in your own lives. Take care!

Friday, January 22, 2010

Kiwi Land

I made it! Disastrous start to an otherwise rough journey with a marvelous "final" destination. I'll post about it later. Just wanted everyone to know I'm here safely and in one piece. Thanks for reading!

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Every Little Thing Is Gonna Be Alright

I was 100% convinced a few years ago that I was to study abroad in Kenya. I started learning Swahili, researching the culture and history, and thinking of nothing but Kenya from the day I made the decision to go. A week before my flight I experienced one of the worst days of my life: Denison prohibited me from going based on a lack of political stability (the Dec 27 2007 elections turned violent). I reluctantly ended up in South Africa.

While there, a friend of mine invited me to attend an informational meeting nearby about a spring break trip to Mozambique. After a lot of thought, I decided to go on the trip. Since scuba diving was part of the trip, I decided to become certified.

While in Mozambique, I was presented with two options: either remain an open water diver and rarely dive the rest of my life or invest a ton more time and money to become an instructor, and make it back over the course of a year off after undergrad.

It's hard to believe that it was all without reason. Look what has stemmed from one of my worst days I can remember. I would not have visited Meg in Hawai'i or met all of her friends, would never have made it to the Philippines or met the Fajardos, Armand, Marin, Brett, Mark, Chris, Jay, Tomi, Maria, or the rest of the crew at Capt'n Gregg's, and never would have been to Indonesia or Singapore meeting the Weckerlings, or the dive crews at Buddha and Lutwala Dive. I would not have a one-way ticket to Australia and certainly wouldn't be lined up to work for Broadreach this summer.

It's hard to say one way or another, but if these things hadn't played out as they did, I might not have this yearning for a massive upheaval of societal restraints. Speaking of, I've received more feedback on that blog post than on any other; responses have run the gamut of encouraging, apprehensive, inquisitive, discouraging, curious, and fearful.

The feeling to temporarily sever ties from civilization is not new, but it has been occurring much more frequently and clearly over the past few months which is why I finally said something about it. I've pandered the idea in a hypothetical light until recently when I at last posed the question: what's holding me back? When this question could not be answered, my mind began to roll with the idea of actually doing it and it's been snowballing ever since, gaining momentum every day although I am still incredibly uncertain whether or not I will act upon the urge. Here are a few obstacles I have thus far recognized: not having enough camera batteries (you'll have to fight me and pry my camera from my hands if you think I should do an adventure of this degree without taking photos – it's the one piece of technology I insist upon), lack of support, lack of emergency contact, location (where is it legal to just plop down and live on the land anymore?), and lack of training.

Here's the thing: I have this spark right now and I recognize that it is but a spark; if I don't let it ignite, it will be extinguished and I will live the rest of my life wondering what could have happened. Like I've said, I don't know why I feel this way, I don't know where to go, I don't know for how long, I don't know how to do it, and I don't know what I expect to get out of it. All I know is that for some reason or other I have a serious urge to live for a while with no connection to the world as I know it.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Playing a Lion Being Led to a Cage

I've been having strong feelings lately, like messages from within that can't be silenced. Believe it or not my friends, I feel like I'm selling myself short. Sure I'm on the other side of the world taking 18 months to teach scuba diving, but honestly I'm not completely satisfied. Too many things about my way of life simply don't seem, well... right.

I've assessed my life here in my humble accommodation on this meager island out in the middle of Indonesia. As much as I don't want to admit it, I'm a slave to civilization, a pawn in man's deliberate quest to detach himself from natural being. Here's a list of a few brilliant inventions surrounding me that man has created to better his life over the course of thousands of years: brick, mortar, chair, bed, fan, toilet, sink, running water, pavement, light bulb, motorboat, restaurant, computer, the list goes on. All of these and other great inventions which I have been successfully trained to love and rely upon my entire life are for what purpose? Are these inventions a means to a “better” life or simply hindrances to a truer life? Let me put it straight. What are you living for? What are the most important things to you in life? Have you found true happiness or simply discovered things that make you smile?

As for these instinctual feelings I've had, here are some details. I want to get away. I want to leave the grips of civilization for a while. I am yearning to get away from it all and live where nothing can hinder natural life. For how long, I don't know. In what way, I don't know. Where, I don't know. Why it is so strong now and never before, I don't know. All I know is that these feelings are real. Are they any stronger in my soul than in my neighbor's? I propose that it is not a matter of having these feelings but rather recognizing and listening to them. Listen to yourself. Where is all of this suddenly coming from though? Is this what it feels like to get a message from God? Perhaps could it be a human instinct no different from the desire to obtain food? Maybe there is simply something wrong with me and I need to snap back into reality and sort my life out as it should be. Nay, I implore you: those who have resigned yourselves to the goals put forth by society, open your eyes! Open your minds! Listen! We are only sculpted by society as much as we allow ourselves to be. Go to school, get a job, make money, wear fancy clothes, get married, buy a house, own an expensive car, have children, teach them to do the same thing, retire, and die. Anything we do outside of that framework seems to be simply a brief break from that unalterable plan. How are we supposed to find meaning in life let alone find ourselves if we're always busy trying to stick to that program? Even I could come up with excuses all day long why someone might not want to break the mold. However not a single one is more important than following your dreams.

Did I forget to mention that a tourist died right off the north end of the island while snorkeling a couple days ago? The fragility of life makes the question ever more pressing. What are you living for?

So here I stand on the uncharted frontier of my life, a stranger to closed roads. The shackles of society around my ankles can still be heard with every step I take and the scratches on them are clear evidence of many attempts of removal. Alas, they hold strong for now. As the morning dew lifts, I stretch my arms and gaze in awe upon the multitude of options. One deep breath fills my lungs with new fresh air and clears my head. Without wasting another moment, I step into the unknown. There is no destination, but only direction: forward.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Thinking Ahead

I figured I would just give a brief “what's on the agenda” so you can all be completely up to date with what's to come.

Gili Trawangan:
I leave on the 21st for Auckland. Between now and then, I need to pack, pay my last 2 weeks of rent, buy a ticket out of New Zealand, say my goodbyes, sell my junky bike and dear guitar, and most of all, finish certifying the two divemaster candidates that I'm currently teaching. Quite a lot to do in just over a week, but I like being busy better than being idle. I am getting tired of the much needed rain though.

New Zealand:
The reason I am going there is to talk to the Marine Science programs at the University of Auckland and University of Otago. In case anyone was still left out on my plan, I am hoping to spend two years in New Zealand getting a masters in some sort of Marine Science such as Physical Oceanography. That makes two required errands that need to be completed within my planned 3 week stay. When not visiting schools, I will be rafting through caves, hiking, camping, taking trains and buses across the countryside, having at least one proper meal with lamb, and taking LOADS of pictures.

Next Step:
My New Zealand trip is going to end around the 15th of February at which point I need a place to go. It's looking very likely that it will be northern Australia since it's the option with the least amount of risk. If there is no work there, I only lose about $150 on the ticket there instead of the $1k+ I'd have spent going to the Seychelles or Mauritius. If Australia doesn't work out, who knows, maybe I'll end up in the Caribbean. Anything's possible.

Summer Camp:
I haven't officially announced that I will be working as a Broadreach leader this summer but let it be known that I will. Hooray! For more information refer to www.GoBroadreach.com. The reason I haven't said anything about it is that they haven't decided where to send me. As soon as I find out, it will be posted here.

Post-Summer:
Are you kidding? You expect me to plan this far in advance?! If anyone knows what dive destination is in high season from September until December, please let me know toute suite.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Funny Transnations

I'm sad to say that funny translations hardly have any effect on me anymore. I have been living for two months in Indonesia where shops advertise services like "we sell haircuts, watch, etc" and "Lightning Internet Faster," and restaurants offer such mouth-watering culinary selections as "Facos [tacos] with spicey saus" and "Sandwith"s. The list goes on, on, on, and on. Oh and that's not mentioning the Indonesians' use of +/- to mean "approximately." When you find "+/- 5% alcohol" on bottles of beer, according to Marcus, by the end of the night you can drink yourself sober. Mistranslations like these are rarely funny on their own anymore because not only have I seen so many of them day in and day out, but it often makes conversation more difficult and confusing. Explaining things 5 times and getting a smile and nod in response is common. Asking for chips and guacamole and suddenly finding yourself sitting in front of french fries, tortilla slices, and a bit of mashed avocado is normal. This has been my motivation for learning Indonesian and the little that I do know has paid off immensely.

As I was saying, I am largely unaffected by translation mistakes anymore but when I went to Ubud (on Bali) with my family to see a traditional play, I was handed a playbill marked as English. This is what it said word for word, plus pictures that I took throughout to go along with each act.


THE BARONG AND KRIS DANCE
The Barong Play represents an eternal fight between good and evil spirits. A Barong (a mythological animal) represent good spirit and Rangda (a mythological monster) represent evil one.

THE DANCE START WITH MUSIC OVERTONE
Followed by his friend the monkey, the tiger comes up. Three masked dancers appear, representing man making palwine in the forest whose child is killed by the tiger. The three men get angry and attack the tiger which is helped by the monkey. During the fight, the nose of one the three men is bitten off.

FIRSTACT
Two Girl dancers appears, representing the servants of the Rangda. They are looking for the servants of Dewi Kunti who are on the way to meet Patih (Prime Minister).

SECONDACT
The servants of Dewi Kunti come. One of the servants of the Rangda changes into a witch and enters both servants to make them angry.
They meet their Patih and go together to Dewi Kunti.

THIRDACT
Dewi Kunti and her son, Sahadewa [I SWEAR Sahadewa is a woman] come up. Dewi Kunti has promised the Rangda to sacrifice Sahadewa. A witch appears and enters Dewi Kunti. She becomes angry and orders the Patih to bring Sahadewa into the forest. The Patih is also entered by a witch so he does not have pity on Sahadewa. Sahadewa is then taken into a forest and tied up on tree.

FOURTHACT
Unknown by Rangda, God Siwa appears and gives Sahadewa immortality. The Rangda appears, ready to kill Sahadewa and eats him up, but Sahadewa is still alive. She than surrender and asks him to redeem her, Sahadewa agrees and kills the Rangda. The Rangda goes to Heaven.

FIFTHACT
One of servants of the Rangda called Kalika comes up before Sahadewa and asks him to redeem her too, Sahadewa refuses. Kalika gets angry and changes into a boar and fights Sahadewa. The bird can be defeated. She than changes into a bird but defeated again. At last she
changes into Rangda. Sahadewa can not kill her. In such circumstances. Sahadewa meditates and than he changes himself in a Barong. Still the Rangda seems to be too powerfull and the fight is unending. Followers of the Barong appear and help him to fight the Rangda.

Thank you very much




By the end of the final act, it turned out that the summary of the play was actually more comprehensible than the play itself. Welcome to Indonesia. I can't go without commenting however on how fantastic it was to see a legitimate gamelan ensemble in Bali. For those who don't know, I was part of the gamelan ensemble at Denison for a semester as we were piloting what turned into a credited music performance class.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Blessings in Disguise (very big disguise)

Last night started awfully enough with signs of a sore throat and going to bed before 10 with no power to run my fan. I woke up with the sunrise on sweat-soaked sheets sneezing and blowing my nose like it was my job. The sneezes were agonizing as they sent crippling waves of pain from my nose all the way down to the back of my throat. At 8:10 the power came on and my fan that had been poised all night finally started but it was too little too late: I left for the dive shop 10 minutes later. The early start was due to a French speaking fellow who came in the night before. He knew less English than I knew French and so I was utterly thrilled that I had the opportunity to speak with him and felt that I did so quite successfully. Not only that, but he didn't believe that I was American, a certain compliment to my accent.

I arrived at the dive shop with one thing in mind however: hot tea. After losing about a cup of snot from the crippling sneezes, all I could think about was getting something soothing to sip. As soon as it arrived, the dive manager said to me in a serious tone, and I paraphrase, “The Russians [the owners of the dive resort] have been talking and they're not sure why you're here. They don't like you using their power all the time (I very often have my laptop plugged in, hooked up to the free wireless hotspot) and have asked me to tell you to not hang around here anymore. That being said, let me separate that from how the rest of the dive staff feel: we don't want to kick you out and would be pleased if you simply cut back the amount of time you spend here. For instance if you're here in the morning, leave after lunch or vise versa.”

Ten minutes later after my tea was finished and said goodbye indefinitely. If the owners don't want me there carrying tanks, organizing gear, washing new masks, and making the dive shop look busy, I frankly don't want to be there.
Candid shot of Buddha Dive staff
I headed up the road and talked to three dive resorts getting the same response as the day before: “we're set right now, we have your number, and we will call you when we need an instructor, etc.” However, my last effort proved successful. As it turns out, at one of the dive resorts up north, the instructor isn't getting along well with his divemaster candidate, another is ready to begin, and the instructor is going to Bali for several days. Within 2 minutes of walking into the shop I was assigned both candidates going from completely unemployed to training two divemasters. Today started out as one of my worst days in months and turned into the best day since my family was here (now I just have to knock this sore throat). I have 16 days left here on Gili Trawangan and within that time I will certify two divemasters; it looks like we have to get down to business!