Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts

Sunday, February 21, 2010

The End of an Era

As is usual, I have gotten behind in posting and have to sacrifice detail such as describing the lush green fields littered with white sheep, the captivating hike through the rain forest opening up to a massive Fox Glacier, further hitchhiking adventures, making it up to the spectacular pancake rocks and taking a stroll along the beach watching the sun set over an aggressive though spellbinding Tasman Sea. Certainly all of these things made for a very enjoyable journey but I will have to rely on my memories alone to bring back the pleasures of my last days on the south island.

Very nice car for the price
I made it back to Wellington and stayed one night before picking up a rental car – a 6-speed manual Toyota Corolla that couldn't have been more than two years old. For those who don't know, I jump at any chance to drive stick shift. I have never had much access to one, so it's a huge treat whenever the opportunity arises. It didn't take long to get used to the left handed shifting nor the driving on the left side of the road. I've done it before so I felt confident doing it again. The journey alone provided a great deal of satisfaction, but it was the destination that was magnificent.

If you're familiar with BBC's Planet Earth series (absolutely amazing), perhaps you've seen the episode on caves. A large portion of this episode is devoted to the Waitomo caves on New Zealand's north island. When I discovered this, the caves worked their way to the top priority on my New Zealand agenda. Seeing the caves was not at all a disappointment. The tour started out with a quick abseiling (rappelling) lesson and before I knew it I was volunteering to be the first to drop down 40 meters through a narrow passage into the black abyss. Climbing through some tight corridors brought us to a platform where I was strapped in and told quite suddenly to turn off my lamp, jump, and let go. The consequence for my blind obedience was a terrifying yet exhilarating zip-line into a pitch black cavern light up by only meager starry lights from the glow worms above. An adrenaline-rushing jump into the icy water was followed by a relaxing drift in rubber inter-tubes along the black water contained by the moist limestone walls. A round trip voyage was much too short but what followed was a combination of walking and swimming through the shallow river systems cutting the cave passages out of the rock. These are the same rivers that go on to carve out the rock with passages reaching 900 meters below the surface. After a good trek through the caves on foot, our guides gave us the option to either turn left and walk right out back into the sun or continue straight and crawl around a bit before coming across a couple waterfalls that, if we rock climb against the water, will also take us back to the surface. No surprise in the decision. By the time it was over, I was ready to turn back around and do it all over again but my wallet disagreed and so I continued on my way to the car. A couple who went on the trip with me bought the photo cd and promised to send me the photos but I'm afraid since I've not yet received word, I will never see them.

My travel map of New Zealand
That night I worked my way back to Auckland having plenty of time to reflect on my trip in a serious traffic jam. Upon arrival I really wondered whether New Zealand could live up to its reputation or if people had built it up too much. Personally I found it to be everything I had expected and nothing less. Great sights, friendly people, good food, brilliant weather (mostly), and a lot of wonderful experiences. I'd like to send thanks out to Alastair and Nicole, the Abbots, the Bishops, and John for letting me spend several nights with them. Also a big shout out to all of them and other friends I met along the way such as Will, Alex, Sarah, and the grad students at U of Otago. Speaking of, the University of Otago is currently my top pick for graduate school. Overall I had a brilliant month in New Zealand and I look forward to the day I am able to return.

Friday, February 19, 2010

From Sea to Shining Sea

The gray clouds overhead were looming with rain while I stood alone waiting for the bus. I had paid the money for the tour and so I prayed that the 7am clouds would clear by the time we reached the west coast; visibility was awful. 20 minutes passed before I called the office on the phone certain that they must have forgotten me; evidently they were just running behind. Why they were behind schedule was completely beyond me. When I boarded the coach, there were 12 eyes looking my way. One English couple, two German women, the driver, and a trainee all watched me and smiled when I realized how crowded the bus wasn't.

Much to my surprise, I didn't sleep a wink on the 4-5 hour ride to Milford Sound. Between the guide's informative tidbits and the stunning scenery, albeit set amongst a gray sky, there was enough to keep my eyes glued to the windows and my camera poised in my hands ready for any break in the clouds. As the day went by and the bus pressed onward, we arrived at Milford Sound. Milford Sound as it turns out is actually a fjord due to the fact that it was carved out by a massive glacier (geologically speaking, not too long ago). As a result of it's formation, the high peaks of the mountain range drop straight into the water to form a breathtaking view around every winding turn. Massive bodies of rock rise up like majestic towers that have stood by for thousands of years keeping watch over the sea. These phenomenal rocky peaks are covered with a surprising amount of greenery which brings the mountain faces to life. As if the cliffs alone were not impressive enough, we were visited by a pod of playful dolphins jumping out of the water.

The entire experience was something magical, the likes of which I've never experienced. Never have I felt magic in the wind, breathed enchantment out of the air, or been so awestruck with beauty as I was when slowly cruising along the water of Milford Sound. Pictures do not do this place justice but I will include them anyway.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Table for One

What image does that phrase put into your mind? Table for one. Yes, certainly eating out at a restaurant, but more importantly it blatantly implies eating out at a restaurant...alone.

This phrase has been a recurring theme throughout my travels for the past 7 months. I do make an effort to eat with company but all too often I end up on my own. This theme is present not only during meals however, but also when doing anything else: booking a tour for one, bus ticket for one, accommodation for one, movie for one, always one. As long as I keep busy, the concept of loneliness is foreign. However, as soon as I'm on my own with nothing planned, it slowly creeps in from all sides.

Walking back in the dark to the hostel after an uneventful night in Queenstown, I look up at the stars. I can't help but notice how bright and beautiful they are. I think of the friendly Hawaiian waitress I just met and wonder if I should return to the restaurant and boldly ask when she finishes working, but decide instead to lose myself in thought. After all, she did imply that it would be a long night for her.

On a sidewalk on the other side of the earth, I begin to reflect on my travels. Thinking of everything I've done fills me with an acute sense of accomplishment. I have traveled across the globe on my own, found work, overcome obstacles, met new people, experienced new cultures, tried new things, had grand adventures, and have really truly been living my life. As my feelings turn from satisfaction to pride, I am pierced by the cold realization that these feelings won't keep me company. They won't talk to me, laugh at my jokes, give me a hug, keep me warm at night, or care for me when I'm ill. Every step on the cold hard concrete echoes across the vacant street filled with strangers. The streetlights stoop toward the earth trying to see what's wrong with this lone solemn wayfarer. I tilt my head back toward the sky to pick out the familiar shape of Orion and take a slow deep breath; the cool fresh night air tastes stale and dry. People pass me by in cars and on foot. They are passersby with direction, uninterested in my presence. I am a ghost.

My thoughts turn to home – to family, friends, and places. I think about Denison, about the blood, sweat, and tears that I sacrificed every night learning physics. I think about all my classmates who valiantly struggled by my side to make it where we are today. I think about the fun I had all four years with roommates, classmates, teammates, bandmates, and other friends. I also think about not only my sister and parents, but my relatives too who have vigorously supported and encouraged me. I think about what everyone else is doing at this very moment. In my head, I live the classic movie scene where a character is out in the winter cold and peers into the window of a house to find a happy smiling family sitting down for a meal by a warm glowing fire. However, as it plays out in my head, I resist the urge for inclusion, consciously turning my back and continuing on down the street as if to say “not yet, not today.”

Photo from Arthur's Pass
I truly believe that I am much happier alone on my grand adventure than I would have been staying in Ohio. The amount of freedom I have in where to go and what to do is far beyond what I would have at home or if traveling with a companion. It is that freedom and ability to be completely spontaneous that has shaped my entire journey and I don't regret one bit of it. I'm no psychologist, but I think a touch of loneliness is a natural healthy response by anyone in my position. Life is about feeling alive. In order to feel alive, you have to feel. I embrace the moments of loneliness, allow the feeling to course through my veins, and then move on with my life strangely rejuvenated. Here's to being alive.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Hitchhiker's Guide

First of all, I was waiting for the day that I reached 25 followers. I was going to have a celebratory post where I got really excited about having a quarter of a hundred people reading my blog, but then I missed it. Sure enough, there are now 27. I try to make a habit of not judging myself on what other people do, but seeing the number of followers rise is the only measurable quantity to how many people are interested in what I'm up to. Here's a big shout out to all 27 of you. Thanks a million for following my travels and keeping me company along the way!

Hitchhiking outside Christchurch
Transportation. What does the word make you immediately think of? Does it bring up images of driving in a car? Fond memories of plane rides? Perhaps a lovely trip in a boat? If you think long enough about the concept of transportation, the idea of cost might cross your mind. With gas prices soaring, there is really only one cheap way to get form one place to another. I'm sure this form of transport is equally as old as any other: hitchhiking. Can't you imagine the very moment Karl Benz started up his first automobile for the first time how his buddies must have been running after him for a free ride? I'm sorry if your imagination doesn't have as much fun as mine seems to but the bottom line is that hitchhiking is still a great way to get around today.

I am going out on a limb and assuming that most of you have never tried it before as a means to travel across a country. Based on this assumption, I will describe a few things I've discovered as a result of my experiences.

Who:
From what I've seen, it's very difficult for more than one hiker to get picked up at a time. People often have space for only one more person, so if you're trying to hitch with someone else, good luck. If there is competition, it's best to walk in the direction you want to go. Separation from the competition is the only way to get picked up.

Where:
Places where cars need to slow down are ideal such as construction zones, turns, or bridges. However, there needs to be a place for them to pull off so forget mountain roads. Getting picked up in town is very unlikely, so starting from the far end of traffic areas is ideal.

When:
It's always best to start early. Sometimes there's hardly a wait but on off days, it may take over twice the time that it would driving there directly.

Why:
It is way cheaper than any other mode of transportation. Moreover, it can be far more interesting and much more beneficial. For instance, I had my first ride on a jet ski as a direct result of hitchhiking.

How:
As seen on tv. It's nothing special. Hold the arm out and confidently stick that thumb toward the sky. There are a few tricks that are handy: facing the cars allows for eye contact, a smile goes a long way, a limp arm or thumb will only hinder, a sign with a not-so-distant location (even if it takes 3 different signs) increases chances, and continuing to walk is an indication of liveliness and determination.

Off-roading in the second ride I got
As you should expect, I have come away with some great stories. For instance, the first car that picked me up literally went up in smoke. I was taken off-roading through bush and rocky river beds (pictured). As I said above, one of the people to pick me up later took me out for an absolutely thrilling ride on his jet ski. I've been picked up by many different nationalities, a wide variety of ages, and people with quite different stories. The experience that stands out slightly above the rest however would have to be the ride I got after finishing my tramp in Arthur's Pass.

Full picnic offered to me, a hitchhiker
Two long days of hiking several kilometers through rugged terrain with a 20kg pack brought me out to state highway 73. Some 200km to my right was Christchurch, and about 25km to my left was Arthur's Pass Department of Conservation (DOC). Unfortunately although my destination was Christchurch, I needed to swing by the DOC first. About 20 minutes of standing exhausted on the side of the road, a green car that had already passed me comes up behind and asks me if I need a lift. My initial thought was “duh,” but I politely said something to the extent of “if it wouldn't be any trouble, I would certainly appreciate it.” I hopped into the back of the '78 Rolls Royce and introduced myself to the other three. Steven, a 50+ year old New Zealander was on his way through Arthur's Pass with his mother and cousin to see the mountains covered in Rata, a native flowering tree that blooms red for about 2 weeks out of the year. We started talking and it turned out that Steven is actually going back to Christchurch after a picnic lunch with the family and offered to take me all the way there. After completing my errands at the DOC, it was insisted that I join them for the picnic lunch set beneath the mountains bursting out with red blossoms. The two and a half hour ride back to Christchurch (which included a shameless 20 minute nap) was probably the smoothest and most comfortable ride of my life. Who knew that my first ever ride in a Rolls Royce would be as a sweaty tired hitchhiker?

Sunday, February 7, 2010

On Deck

Here's a sneak preview of what my upcoming posts are going to be about once I get back to Christchurch and have my laptop back.

Hitchhiker's Guide
-Hitching to Arthur's Pass and beyond


Table for One
-Ups and downs of traveling alone


Sea to Shining Sea
-Trip to Milford Sound (with pictures!)


As for right now, I've accepted that Australia is in low season for the next few months and have decided to go to the Caribbean instead (alas, I will not make it around the world). If anyone has suggestions where to go, please send them to me URGENTLY. I need to book the ticket by the end of the week. Some of my best choices so far are Cayman Islands, Bahamas, St Lucia, St. Maarten, Turks and Caicos, Aruba, and Trinidad. I've ruled out Haiti and Jamaica. Alright, my internet is running low so I need to get running. Well, wandering off to bed. Thanks for reading!

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

On Hold

Dry riverbed in Arthur's Pass
I really hope that I'll be able to catch up a bit on my recent adventures. It takes an enormous amount of time to type out everything I've done. I'll have no computer for the next 10 days or so, thus drastically decreasing the likelihood I'll include everything so far, let alone in sufficient detail. Unfortunately, unless I don't sleep tonight, there's nothing I can do about it.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Keeping Busy

Beautiful ferry ride
For your viewing pleasure, this is a picture from the ferry ride taken on my way into the south island. It was much nicer in real life - undoubtedly the best ferry ride of my life.

Anyway there are a ton of things that I have to think about, do, plan, and prepare for. Here's a list of what I can come up with off the top of my head of things I'm planning to do:

Get in touch with University of Otago
Organize transport to the university
Find accommodation for staying there
Send my computer battery to USA to be replaced
Decide on a track for the first hike for the next 3 days
Finish packing for the hike
Get a hold of a proper map and compass
Buy batteries, food, and trash bags for tomorrow
Call car rental agencies to ask about prices
Figure out transport to my second and longer hike
Determine transport back to Christchurch
Book a spot for black water rafting
Ship a bunch of things home

This is as much as I can remember. There are many more things I have to do but I can't think of them right now. All of these things to do are quite important but the most urgent plan (that I didn't even mention) is sleeping and I'm going to get working on that one pronto.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Goodbye Indonesia

My time in Indonesia has expired. Unlike milk, it didn't begin to gradually smell putrid. Nope, not like that at all. Instead, it turned from happy to rotten in a matter of minutes. Before going into that, I'd like to write a little preface about how nice my final days were on Gili Trawangan.

First of all, the dive resort I was working for, named Lutwala Dive, is amazing. It is beautiful, has a great pool, it's clean, has an incredible view, is situated away from all the noise and tourists, and has very friendly staff. I truly enjoyed showing up to work every morning because I felt incredibly welcome and there was always someone to talk to.

Before finishing, I certified my two divemaster candidates named Francois and Audrey. Audrey finished up first and went out to Bali to begin the instructor course right away. Francois, who started later, was on a much more serious time crunch. I worked with him every day for just over 2 weeks and on my last full day on the island, we finished. That night was spent at the Irish bar celebrating the completion of the course. Needless to say, Francois probably forgot what he was celebrating by the time he went to sleep (I exaggerate).

By 10:30 the next morning, I had been to Lutwala Dive twice, signed all the divemaster paperwork, sent a couple emails, printed off tickets, paid my ferry ticket, finished packing, said goodbye to friends, sold my bike, and bought a few pieces of bread before getting onto the boat. The last boat leaving Gili Trawangan departed at 11:00 and I was on it. 3 hours later when I arrived at the airport, security informed me that I was too early to check in for my 9:45pm flight. I knew I would have to wait that long, but I was hoping that waiting would not involve schlepping luggage everywhere. This is when I realized how great an idea it was not to sell the guitar. My guitar skills are quite far from being able to play in a public space for money and my vocal ability is even worse (I'm my hardest critic, but anyone hearing me would agree I can't do it for money). However, when it comes to playing for myself just for passing the time, I'm a musical wizard. No, it's not that it sounds any better when I'm playing for myself. It is just a matter of how I connect with the sounds that come out.

6 hours pass with the sun already setting. By now, it's time to check in. The first problem to throw off my systematic and fluid journey through the airport was a woman corralling passengers through to the check-in counter. “Sorry sir, the guitar has to be checked.” Arguing quickly proved hopeless and I easily caved, being forced to pay $6 to have my $16 guitar wrapped in bubble wrap. Having this issue sorted out, I proceeded once again to check-in.

The friendly face behind the counter greeted me with a convincing smile as if to say “hello sir, I really like my job and I want to make your journey pleasant.” She was clothed in a standard green uniform with a matching hat and shiny lapel pin that glinted in the dim fluorescent lights above. My actions and answers preceded her predictable commands and questions. Everything was textbook form. Then we got to the luggage. (Marcus, perhaps this is the island's way of trying to get back at me for leaving.)

As it turns out, Jet Star, a proud partner of Qantas, has this policy. You are able to take sports luggage on the plane without a problem. Scuba gear listed under sports luggage includes bcd, fins, mask, snorkel, regulator, knife, weights, and even tanks. However, if you take these things in a bag to check in on a Jet Star flight, you will quickly find out that you cannot take anything else with you at all. The max limit is 20kg no matter what kind of luggage you have. You see, I have 20kg of sports luggage. I also have about 20kg of everything else (books, clothes, shoes, toiletries, chargers, etc). Jet Star's policy is that for every additional kilo, you pay 20 Australian dollars. After some arguing and talking to a supervisor, it turned out that it's actually 23 US dollars on an international flight. Isn't that convenient.

The poor girl in the uniform was clearly feeling helpless as her smile turned to genuine concern while she watched this bubbly lone American traveler turn into a rather upset, insistent, and panicked customer. Several times I made sure to tell her that my anger and shock was not being taken out on her at all and was certain to make it clear that she was doing nothing wrong while at the same time trying to get her to solve the problem. She was a puppet, almost completely helpless in my dilemma that was taking control of my temper. $570 was the total: more than I paid for the ticket. When I asked about canceling the flight and booking another one (listen, desperation was setting in and I needed to take serious action), she fetched me a phone number of the Jet Star office.

I kindly took my bags to abandon my stake at the counter in front of the dazed employee and retreat to an empty post. With shaky hands I dropped my bags and pulled out my phone. The first number I dialed was not the one she gave me: it was my father's cell phone. At 7:30am EST on a Thursday, my parents are probably already at work but Dad usually has his cell with him. I tried every combination of +001, +01, +1, 001, 01, and 1 preceding the phone number, but nothing worked. I frantically tried the same for my mother's cell and my dad's office (3 of the only 5 numbers I have memorized). I tried calling the number she gave me and no one picked up. One more round of every possible number to reach home and one last effort to call the office proved in vain. I was on my own. My life lines have been used up. I had to pull myself together and face the bureaucratic corporation alone.

Ripping my bags open, I pulled out another backpack and began stuffing it with anything heavy I could find. I was taking one of the employee's good ideas: take 10kg out of my bags and take it as carry-on. Most of the passengers on the flight had already checked in so I didn't have to wait to speak to her again. Heaving my bags onto the scale one last time showed that I was about 12kg over the limit and the face between the recently pressed jacket and matching green hat showed no signs of reassurance. Her disapproving and worried face brought panic back into mine. At this point, the only thing I could do short of making a scene was make it look like I planned to make a scene. The area that I was pacing widened, the tension in my hands went up, the amount of times I rubbed my face and pulled my hair increased, and the feeling of worry and panic was radiating from my body. The next thing I know is that there was a different supervisor than before standing next to my friend in green asking me questions about my luggage and before I knew it, my bags were on the conveyor toward the plane with no fee. I got a stern threat not to tell anyone [until after leaving the Auckland airport] that I had more than 20kg or else she would be in huge trouble. I thanked her a few dozen times and went on my way. If there's anything I learned from that experience, it would be that pretending to get ready to cause a scene is very effective.

During the Bali-Sydney leg of the trip, an infection broke out on my foot and while I was practically skipping onto the plane, I was forced to limp off of it. A quick purchase of band-aids and ointment were made but it would be 2 more days until seeing a proper doctor. By now, my foot is feeling much better.

Auckland is great, the people I'm staying with are wonderful, and I'm looking forward to my adventures ahead. I haven't decided whether or not to take my laptop with me (remember I can't use the battery). If I don't, I'll make sure to update every once in a while. I'll certainly take lots of photos! As always, thanks for reading and I hope you are excited about what's to come not only in this blog but also in your own lives. Take care!

Friday, January 22, 2010

Kiwi Land

I made it! Disastrous start to an otherwise rough journey with a marvelous "final" destination. I'll post about it later. Just wanted everyone to know I'm here safely and in one piece. Thanks for reading!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Thinking Ahead

I figured I would just give a brief “what's on the agenda” so you can all be completely up to date with what's to come.

Gili Trawangan:
I leave on the 21st for Auckland. Between now and then, I need to pack, pay my last 2 weeks of rent, buy a ticket out of New Zealand, say my goodbyes, sell my junky bike and dear guitar, and most of all, finish certifying the two divemaster candidates that I'm currently teaching. Quite a lot to do in just over a week, but I like being busy better than being idle. I am getting tired of the much needed rain though.

New Zealand:
The reason I am going there is to talk to the Marine Science programs at the University of Auckland and University of Otago. In case anyone was still left out on my plan, I am hoping to spend two years in New Zealand getting a masters in some sort of Marine Science such as Physical Oceanography. That makes two required errands that need to be completed within my planned 3 week stay. When not visiting schools, I will be rafting through caves, hiking, camping, taking trains and buses across the countryside, having at least one proper meal with lamb, and taking LOADS of pictures.

Next Step:
My New Zealand trip is going to end around the 15th of February at which point I need a place to go. It's looking very likely that it will be northern Australia since it's the option with the least amount of risk. If there is no work there, I only lose about $150 on the ticket there instead of the $1k+ I'd have spent going to the Seychelles or Mauritius. If Australia doesn't work out, who knows, maybe I'll end up in the Caribbean. Anything's possible.

Summer Camp:
I haven't officially announced that I will be working as a Broadreach leader this summer but let it be known that I will. Hooray! For more information refer to www.GoBroadreach.com. The reason I haven't said anything about it is that they haven't decided where to send me. As soon as I find out, it will be posted here.

Post-Summer:
Are you kidding? You expect me to plan this far in advance?! If anyone knows what dive destination is in high season from September until December, please let me know toute suite.